Have You Ever Clipped Your Horse?

Clipping your horse can either be a very enjoyable thing or a complete disaster. Hopefully it wont be the latter but I have seen a few horses whose owners clearly started clipping before they thought about how to do it correctly, or even why they wanted to do it.

Before you think about clipping your horse you need to know why you want to clip and what sort of clip you want to give your horse. Clipping ensures your horse remains healthy and comfortable. Make sure you know when you should start clipping your horse and from then you need to maintain it at regular intervals.

There is also the difference between clipping and trimming to be considered.

If your horse gets too hot during exercise, is overheating or is in danger of becoming chilled while waiting to dry in cold weather you should definitely consider clipping. Some horses and ponies will grow very heavy coats all year round and after the smallest amount of work will break out into a sweat – having a heavy coat then makes it very difficult for them to dry out quickly, clipping these sort of horses or ponies is really important. Think of it as you going outside with wet hair – you may well get a chill, so that the same type of problem your horse or pony faces.

So the main reasons for clipping (with specialist clippers) are:

* For quick drying after exercise.
* So your horse can be exercised rigorously without being uncomfortable.
* To maintain good condition by avoiding excessive sweating.
* Makes grooming easier.
* Maintains a smart looking horse.

If, however, clipping is not necessary, then regular trimming (with scissors) of your horse’s head, muzzle, ears and legs will be sufficient. But, before you start on this consider how steady your horse is. If he’s going to move around a lot because he’s not used to it then the scissors can become a danger to your and the horse. So think about it first and if necessary get someone else to hold him and stroke his nose and sort of distract him, whilst you get to work with the scissors. I cover introducing your horse to the clippers later in this newsletter so that should help with the scissors too.

What time of year should I clip my horse?

September is usually a good time to start thinking about clipping your horse if he has not been clipped during the summer months. Some horses are clipped all year round if they are competing. Older horses are also clipped in the summer months as some do not lose their winter coat properly. Excessive coat growth or retention of the coat during the summer in older animals, especially ponies, should be brought to the attention of your vet, as this may be an indication of certain problems. If you only clip your horse during the winter months, you should do the last clip of the year no later than the first couple of weeks in January when your horse will start to grow his new summer coat.

What are your choices of clipping style?

You will choose the style depending on the type of work your horse will be doing over the winter period, taking into account how much he usually sweats.

The various clips include:

Trace clip: there are two types, the high and the low trace. This clip allows horses and ponies to be exercised without getting too hot. It also allows them to continue being turned-out in the winter. The coat is removed from the belly and up the underside of the neck. Hair is left on the head, the topside of the neck, body and legs for warmth and protection. For a low trace only a small section of hair is removed from the belly and neck. A high trace takes more hair from these areas going further up the horse’s flank.

Blanket clip: this type of clip would suit a horse that has regular exercise, is turned-out in the field and does various events at the weekends. The coat is removed completely from the head, neck and flanks, leaving only an area of hair that looks like an exercise sheet over the back and hind-quarters and on the legs. The hair on the legs is left mainly for warmth and protection

Hunter clip: used mainly for horses in heavy work, such as hunters. The clip is similar to the blanket except the hair over the hind-quarters is removed leaving only a patch in the saddle area. Again, the leg hair remains for warmth and protection.

Full clip: this is usually given to competition horses that compete in the winter months. The whole of the coat is removed, including body, legs and head. This clip looks very smart but does require careful stable management. Horses with a full clip need to be rugged up at all times and may need to wear stable bandages in very cold weather.

How do I go about clipping my horse for the first time?

Introduce your horse to clippers very carefully. Show them to your horse when they are turned off, rub them over the horses body – talk to your horse all the time in a calming voice, you could also let him have some of his favourite food while you are doing this. Not only will this take his mind off the clippers but he will associate them with good things. Once you feel confident, turn the clippers on and let your horse become accustomed to the noise they make before you start clipping him. If you have bought a new pair of clippers, they probably won’t be that noisy anyway, not like older models. Make sure you keep your clippers in good condition, oil them regularly and keep the blades sharp. If the clippers are constantly pulling at your horses hair, it will be a much more stressful ordeal for him.

Right, now where do I start?

If you follow these steps you shouldn’t have any problems:

First of all you need to purchase a good quality pair of clippers. There are many different types available depending on the job you need them for.

Give your horse a bath if he is particularly dirty, if this is not necessary make sure he is groomed thoroughly, getting rid of any dirt and sweat that might clog up the clippers.

Have a rug ready to put on your horse as you clip him, he will soon notice the difference!

Have someone on hand to hold your horse and comfort him if he becomes agitated.

Using chalk to outline the area you are going to clip, particularly if you have not clipped a horse before.

While clipping the body, the clippers must run flat over the coat, don’t use too much pressure otherwise you will create lines known as ‘tram-lines’. On the other hand, when clipping the legs and face you will need to clip against the hair as it is shorter than the rest of the hair on the horse’s body.

It is probably best to start from the top of the neck and head and then work your way along the rest of the body. You will probably end up creating your own method of clipping which better suits both you and your horse, creating the least amount of stress possible.

Be firm, but gentle when working around the head. It is probably best to use a pair of finishing trimmers (they make less noise).

When you have finished, make sure that your horse is rugged up according to what sort of clip you have given him, apply stable bandages if necessary and give him a well deserved treat!

If you are really not comfortable with all this or your horse isn’t reacting well then get an expert to do it for you. It won’t cost you very much and it could cut out a lot of stress for both you and your horse.

Powered By

Horse Trailers: A Low Down On How To Purchase One

It was a long time back when horses were taken to war that the commanders realized that they would be saving a lot of money if they got the injured horses treated. This is how the invention of horse trailers came around. From that day on to this day, horse trailers have come a far way. Though it still built to transport horses from one area to another, it is no longer pulled by horses. It can normally be carted like any other trailer.

The trailer also has a living area attached to it now. It is given a complete look with all the facilities that you’d want to live a normal life inside the trailer. This definitely is home away from home. If you own a horse and are somehow considering getting yourself a horse trailer there’s a lot you may need to think of before taking the big decision. You may want to take this decision after some contemplation because it involves spending a lot of money. Money can’t just be wasted on something that doesn’t suit your needs.

Here is a list of certain factors that you can take into consideration while thinking of buying a horse trailer. This list has been put together for your convenience. a. The trailer will definitely have a horse area. You need to check how well it is insulated or closed. b. The living quarters should be big enough for it to be comfortable. c. Amenities that you may need for your day to day like a fridge or oven etc., must be present in the trailer. d. Kitchen sink is an important facility. Check to see if it is present. e. The toilet seat has to be clean and the quality should be good. f. There must be water tanks in the trailer. Check to see if they are large enough. g. Saddle racks can be very convenient. Try to see if you can get a trailer with the saddle racks. h. Warranty on the frame is a very important factor. The longevity matters a lot. i. Check the quality of the flooring provided in the trailer. It should make you feel comfortable. j. Most important factor is the amount that you will be paying for this tin baby.

When you’ve found all the features listed above in a trailer, know that it’s the one for you. These features will make sure you will be able to get the best deal. Test ride the trailer. This is very important. This will tell you if you are able to adjust to the trailer. Take it for a long ride if possible.

You must be aware that you will be able to add a lot of features like add ons. These are for an extra expense but sure are useful. You must be sure not to be spending over your budget. There are companies which are available which sell you these trailers at factory rate. This means a lot lesser than what you will find it to be in a showroom.

These outlets sell the trailers at factory prices which makes it a lot lower than actual show room prices. Finding a list of such trailers is very easy. If you want the trailer to be delivered to your city that should not be a problem at all.

It was a long time back when horses were taken to war that the commanders realized that they would be saving a lot of money if they got the injured horses treated. This is how the invention of horse trailers came around. From that day on to this day, horse trailers have come a far way. Though it still built to transport horses from one area to another, it is no longer pulled by horses. It can normally be carted like any other trailer.

Source

Teaching Yourself to Ride Well

I received a letter from Brittany in Alberta Canada recently that reminded me that not all riders have access to professional training and they still become good riders, in many cases. One of my best friends in the Midwest had never had a single riding lesson in her life, but if I had to choose a rider to join me in a dangerous situation, she was always first on my list. First because what she may have lacked in formal training, she more than compensated for in common sense and instinct.

Here is a part of Brittany?s letter:

“Dear Bonnie,

I do not get professional riding lessons because I am too far away from town. I am not too sure how to become a good rider and learn the things I need to know, without the lessons. Please help,

Brittany”

Dear Brittany,

While I think riding lessons with a good instructor can give you a huge head start in your career with horses, it is not always possible. Consider that one hundred years ago when horses were used on a daily basis for transportation and for farm work, I don?t ever recall reading about riding lessons being offered. I believe the concept of riding lessons began after the horse was no longer a part of daily life and daily survival. When people had more time, they could focus on the finer things in life and hone their riding skills for competition, rather than just for survival.

With that said, there are basic safety issues that all riders should know about, in the same way that there are basic safety issues that all automobile drivers should adhere to. So, how do you learn these things as well as the finer points of the posting trot? Below are a few tips that will help you and all other riders who ARE already in a riding lesson program:

1.

Borrow a video camera and have a friend video tape your rides. Specifically, you are looking for video to be shot when you are on a straightaway. The camera should be in the center of the ring, following you along the long wall. This will allow YOU to review the tape after your ride and study your form.
2.

Visit the local library and check out books on horsemanship, dressage, jumping and western riding. These will teach you secrets that more seasoned riders use and will introduce you to the language of riding. Just as in flying a plane, there is a somewhat secret language that develops within each sport and if you are not familiar with that language, it is hard to grasp basic concepts. By reading many books, you will start to become familiar with that language and better understand what you are reading.
3.

Rent or buy videotapes on any type of riding you can find. Study the form of the riders in the videos as you would study your own form in your barn videos. You can learn a lot by watching a rider and then watching the reaction they get from their horse.
4.

Visit horse shows and try to figure out which buttons the riders are using to queue their horses. Just like driving a car, there are buttons that you push and gears that you shift in order to get the result you seek. Horses are no different; if you watch carefully (pay special attention to the limbs on the rail side of the ring) you can see where people are placing their buttons and learn from it. In the show ring, most of the riders choose to place their buttons on the side closest to the rail so the judge can?t see them asking, so pay special attention to the hand and leg closest to the rail.
5.

Audit clinics that come to your town. I don?t care if they are cutting horse clinics, dressage or jumping clinics. You can learn from all riding disciplines and the most successful riders are those who study other riding styles outside of their own and use the techniques from each that will enhance their own riding. I suggest auditing, rather than participating because you need to watch and study without the distraction of traffic in the ring.
6.

Take your video camera with you to special events. Position yourself either in the middle of the ring or at the very end of the long wall (outside the ring so that you can see the horses coming right at you). You are looking to see how riders are queuing their horses and how those horses react to those queues. Just as football players “study the films” after a game to learn as much as they can about the other team, I recommend doing the same with horses.
7.

Keep your common sense with you at all times. I suggest this because not all books or videos or clinicians make sense. In other words, you don?t only learn what to do from others, but you also can learn “what NOT to do”.

For example, many years ago, I met a Tennessee Walker “trainer” from a very small town when walkers were just becoming popular. He wanted to show me how “he” trained his horses. I was thrilled at the possibility of learning from everyone and spent the day with him. Oddly enough, when he queued his horses to canter, he leaned way over the horse?s inside shoulder as though he were looking at the horse?s inside foot and then with a mighty swing, he kicked the horse with the toe of his boot in the elbow on the inside. Of course, the horse couldn?t get on the correct lead because there was 200 pounds of weight leaning on the leg he needed to pick up. However, when the trainer kicked him in the inside elbow, the horse responded by moving away and the result was predictable?. The trainer ended up on the ground, face first. Huge surprise.

The good news is that walking horses are more and more popular each year and the level of training has improved along with the popularity of the breed. The same can be said for most breeds but as a rider, your job is to ask yourself, “does this training technique or riding technique make sense?” If the answer is NO, keep reading, keep renting videos, keep visiting shows and clinics until you find the right answers for your riding program.

While I would love to have every horsemen participate in at least one full year of riding lessons, I understand that this is not always possible. However, with a little effort on your part, you can do the next best thing and become a capable, safe, responsible and effective rider. It may take a bit longer to achieve your goals on your own, but it can be done.

Source

CLICKER TRAINING A HORSE TO LOAD ON A TRAILER

When I put on clicker demonstrations with my trick pony, I am often asked if the clicker could be used for regular training, such as loading a horse onto a trailer.  In the past I would always reply that I presumed it could be, but that I couldn?t speak from personal experience as I had only used it for trick training.  Now, thanks to my two-year-old palomino Aurum, I can say that I have found clicker training to be highly successful in teaching a horse to load.

Aurum had spent the first two years of his life in a field and had had minimal handling.  He seemed a pleasant horse, although the woman who did the vet check was unable to examine his back hooves.  She assured us it would only take a couple of weeks of handling to rectify this problem.

Aurum was fine for his needles, but it took two men and the vet over an hour to load him onto our trailer with the use of ropes, a chain lead shank and a tranquilizer.  Then, when we got him home, we found that despite our daily handling, we were unable to clean his hooves.  When the farrier came, the horse went berserk.  (The previous owner had told us that on the rare occasions when Aurum had had his feet done, the person who did them had tied up his legs.)

I wanted to take Aurum to a trainer four hours away who specialized in such problems, but this meant I had to teach him to load onto our trailer.  In his first week with us, I had already used a clicker to teach him to walk off-line over a ramp, and to go through my pony?s hoop.

It took me exactly two days to get Aurum self-loading onto either side of our two-horse trailer.  I had my husband put the trailer in a fenced field, and I used grain as a lure and then clicked each step forward.  The first day Aurum entered the trailer far enough to get the grain by stretching his neck out, and the second day all four feet came on to a ?move up? command.  Over the next week, I reinforced each day, and Aurum began staying for longer and longer periods of time without backing off.

I believe the clicker method proved so successful because the horse has the option of leaving, and so he doesn?t feel trapped.  We had only had Aurum three weeks when he left for the trainer, so when we went to pick him up with his farrier problem solved, I wondered if he would remember his loading lessons.  Sure enough, he walked right onto the trailer and made the four-hour journey back home with no fuss.

For readers who haven?t heard of the clicker method, I will give a brief description of its development.  Clicker training was originally developed by marine dolphin trainers who used a high frequency whistle as a ?bridging signal? to mark correct responses in training.  The sound of the whistle meant a reward was coming.

Most trainers of land animals use a toy clicker instead of a whistle to mark a desired behavior.  The sound of the clicker tells the animal that whatever it was doing at the exact second it heard the clicker is what has earned its reward.

The word ?exact? is important here, and it is why the method is so quick and so effective.  Once the animal learns the meaning of the click, it will become eager to discover the latest desired behavior.

The clicker method is wonderfully positive.  When the horse or pony does the correct thing, I click at once and say enthusiastically, ?That?s exactly right.?  Then I give the treat ? usually an alfalfa chunk.  The sound of the click really seems to capture the horse?s interest, and training is highly enjoyable for both the equine and the handler.  A wrong response brings nothing bad – just a quietly spoken ?Wrong,? or ?Sorry.?

To start clicker training your horse or pony, the first thing you have to do is to get him to understand that ?click? means a reward is coming.  This is easiest to do by teaching him to ?target.?  Each time he touches a target (I use the end of a hunter bat ? some people use a small cone), you click and reward.  It?s amazing how soon your animal will be following the target.

Most clicker trainers wear a treat pouch on their waist while working.  A lot of people worry that using treats to train will make your horse pushy, but if clicker training is done properly, your horse will be less likely to mug you for treats than he was before.  That?s because you never, ever reward pushy behavior, or touching the treat bag.  A sharp ?No!? or ?Wrong!? is usually all that is required.  The only thing that will get the reward is the desired behavior.

Once the horse has the idea of the clicker, the possibilities for tricks are endless.  My pony can laugh, shake hands, fetch a dumbbell, kick a ball, give a kiss, stand up on a ?pause box?, do weave poles, jump through a hoop, blow his own horn (this is a bicycle horn and he squeezes the bulb with his teeth), and fetch a tissue out of a box when I sneeze.  (A word of caution here:  Before you teach your horse any tricks, make sure you will be able to control the behavior once you have it.  I plan to leave rearing out of both Aurum?s and my pony?s repertoire.)

As you can tell, I?m a big fan of equine clicker training, and the next time someone asks me if you can teach a horse to load on a trailer using the clicker method, my answer will be a resounding ?Yes!?

Source

Horse Riding Safety

When riding a horse you should always have a helmet on, no matter the age a helmet should be worn when horse riding! Don’t be so quick to say no way! They have some pretty neat looking helmets to choose from in many different styles. Wearing a helmet can be the difference between a minor scrape and cut and possibly hurting your head or worse. Do be sure to pick an approved helmet!

When you go horse riding you should always wear sturdy shoe that has a heel. A sturdy heel will help keep your feet safe and in the stirrup at all times. It will allow your foot to have leverage should you feel off balance or if a problem should arise while riding.

It is best to wear pants that tuck into your boot when riding. If your pant leg is too baggy it could very well get caught on something while riding that could cause you to get snagged or worse. You should also ride in clothes that are loose and comfortable and not tight or restricting.

Before each ride, be sure to check your bridle and saddle for any problems that may have occurred such as rotting or stitching coming undone. After each ride you should clean your tack and store it in a dry area to prevent any damage occurring in between rides. Also, it is best to make sure the bridal is adjusted to where you left it since you last rode. A bridal that isn’t adjusted comfortably will cause a cranky horse and a not so fun ride for you!

When dismounting the horse always remove both of your feet from the stirrups before swinging your right leg over the horse’s hindquarters. This is a simple way to avoid an accident occurring while you are dismounting the horse.

While horses are beautiful, loving animals children under the age of 18 should never ride unsupervised by an adult. Just as any other animal, horses can get scared or upset and become unpredictable, its best to practice safety first.

Source

Tonya Nyland at KeyStone Farm

Horse Safety Tips

Horses are beautiful, loving creatures but like anything else in life, there are precautions you should take when dealing with them. While a horse would never intentionally hurt a person or another animal, accidents can happen. It is best to be aware of how to avoid such occurrences before they happen.

Barn Safety Tips:

All barn equipment should have a proper place for storing, they should not be left out where a horse can step on them or a human can trip over them as well. Always be sure to put rakes, forks and any other equipment out of reach.

When cleaning Up be sure to sweep up the barn on a regular basis to prevent any foreign objects, nails and the like to be left on the barn floor which can hurt your foot and your horses hoof.

When visiting the barn be sure to wear proper attire and a shoe that will protect your feet. You should never wear an open toed shoe, flip flop or sandal when working or visiting a barn. It is best to wear a sneaker or shoe so that your foot is protected at all times.

More Horse Safety Tips:

Always be aware of where you are standing in proximity to where the horse is; should you have to walk behind him, always walk as close to him as possible. Should the horse get nervous or startled he could possibly kick, this can be avoided by walking closely behind him not allowing him room to kick.

You should always lead your horse back into the barn or stall, do not allow him to charge into the stall. Taking the time to train your horse in this manner is a safe measure for any other horses, animals and people that may be present when your horse darts in the barn or stall. When using a lead to guide your horse into the barn, use a lead rope which will give you more control then leading him by the halter.

Lastly, keep your animals separate and never put them alone in a confined space. Many animals simply do not get along and can become agitated which could end up an unsafe situation for you and the animals.

Our Partner :

racingbetter.co.uk

Have You Ever Clipped Your Horse?

Clipping your horse can either be a very enjoyable thing or a complete disaster. Hopefully it wont be the latter but I have seen a few horses whose owners clearly started clipping before they thought about how to do it correctly, or even why they wanted to do it.

Before you think about clipping your horse you need to know why you want to clip and what sort of clip you want to give your horse. Clipping ensures your horse remains healthy and comfortable. Make sure you know when you should start clipping your horse and from then you need to maintain it at regular intervals.

There is also the difference between clipping and trimming to be considered.

If your horse gets too hot during exercise, is overheating or is in danger of becoming chilled while waiting to dry in cold weather you should definitely consider clipping. Some horses and ponies will grow very heavy coats all year round and after the smallest amount of work will break out into a sweat – having a heavy coat then makes it very difficult for them to dry out quickly, clipping these sort of horses or ponies is really important. Think of it as you going outside with wet hair – you may well get a chill, so that the same type of problem your horse or pony faces.

So the main reasons for clipping (with specialist clippers) are:

* For quick drying after exercise.
* So your horse can be exercised rigorously without being uncomfortable.
* To maintain good condition by avoiding excessive sweating.
* Makes grooming easier.
* Maintains a smart looking horse.

If, however, clipping is not necessary, then regular trimming (with scissors) of your horse’s head, muzzle, ears and legs will be sufficient. But, before you start on this consider how steady your horse is. If he’s going to move around a lot because he’s not used to it then the scissors can become a danger to your and the horse. So think about it first and if necessary get someone else to hold him and stroke his nose and sort of distract him, whilst you get to work with the scissors. I cover introducing your horse to the clippers later in this newsletter so that should help with the scissors too.

What time of year should I clip my horse?

September is usually a good time to start thinking about clipping your horse if he has not been clipped during the summer months. Some horses are clipped all year round if they are competing. Older horses are also clipped in the summer months as some do not lose their winter coat properly. Excessive coat growth or retention of the coat during the summer in older animals, especially ponies, should be brought to the attention of your vet, as this may be an indication of certain problems. If you only clip your horse during the winter months, you should do the last clip of the year no later than the first couple of weeks in January when your horse will start to grow his new summer coat.

What are your choices of clipping style?

You will choose the style depending on the type of work your horse will be doing over the winter period, taking into account how much he usually sweats.

The various clips include:

Trace clip: there are two types, the high and the low trace. This clip allows horses and ponies to be exercised without getting too hot. It also allows them to continue being turned-out in the winter. The coat is removed from the belly and up the underside of the neck. Hair is left on the head, the topside of the neck, body and legs for warmth and protection. For a low trace only a small section of hair is removed from the belly and neck. A high trace takes more hair from these areas going further up the horse’s flank.

Blanket clip: this type of clip would suit a horse that has regular exercise, is turned-out in the field and does various events at the weekends. The coat is removed completely from the head, neck and flanks, leaving only an area of hair that looks like an exercise sheet over the back and hind-quarters and on the legs. The hair on the legs is left mainly for warmth and protection

Hunter clip: used mainly for horses in heavy work, such as hunters. The clip is similar to the blanket except the hair over the hind-quarters is removed leaving only a patch in the saddle area. Again, the leg hair remains for warmth and protection.

Full clip: this is usually given to competition horses that compete in the winter months. The whole of the coat is removed, including body, legs and head. This clip looks very smart but does require careful stable management. Horses with a full clip need to be rugged up at all times and may need to wear stable bandages in very cold weather.

How do I go about clipping my horse for the first time?

Introduce your horse to clippers very carefully. Show them to your horse when they are turned off, rub them over the horses body – talk to your horse all the time in a calming voice, you could also let him have some of his favourite food while you are doing this. Not only will this take his mind off the clippers but he will associate them with good things. Once you feel confident, turn the clippers on and let your horse become accustomed to the noise they make before you start clipping him. If you have bought a new pair of clippers, they probably won’t be that noisy anyway, not like older models. Make sure you keep your clippers in good condition, oil them regularly and keep the blades sharp. If the clippers are constantly pulling at your horses hair, it will be a much more stressful ordeal for him.

Right, now where do I start?

If you follow these steps you shouldn’t have any problems:

First of all you need to purchase a good quality pair of clippers. There are many different types available depending on the job you need them for.

Give your horse a bath if he is particularly dirty, if this is not necessary make sure he is groomed thoroughly, getting rid of any dirt and sweat that might clog up the clippers.

Have a rug ready to put on your horse as you clip him, he will soon notice the difference!

Have someone on hand to hold your horse and comfort him if he becomes agitated.

Using chalk to outline the area you are going to clip, particularly if you have not clipped a horse before.

While clipping the body, the clippers must run flat over the coat, don’t use too much pressure otherwise you will create lines known as ‘tram-lines’. On the other hand, when clipping the legs and face you will need to clip against the hair as it is shorter than the rest of the hair on the horse’s body.

It is probably best to start from the top of the neck and head and then work your way along the rest of the body. You will probably end up creating your own method of clipping which better suits both you and your horse, creating the least amount of stress possible.

Be firm, but gentle when working around the head. It is probably best to use a pair of finishing trimmers (they make less noise).

When you have finished, make sure that your horse is rugged up according to what sort of clip you have given him, apply stable bandages if necessary and give him a well deserved treat!

If you are really not comfortable with all this or your horse isn’t reacting well then get an expert to do it for you. It won’t cost you very much and it could cut out a lot of stress for both you and your horse.

Powered By

Are you Ready to Buy a Horse?

Horses are excellent athletic creatures and can make a delightful, loving family companion. However, before purchasing a horse as a pet it is best for anyone, families in particular, to fully understand and accept the many responsibilities that come with horse ownership.

Buying a Horse is Big Responsibility

Owning a horse is a big responsibility and one that should not be taken lightly. It means hard work for you, dirty chores and can be quite a considerable expense to care for.

It is imperative for prospective horse owners to fully understand that the initial purchase of your horse is only the very beginning.

Special consideration needs to be given to where the horse will be kept. Will it be on your own property? Will you rent a stable? What are the costs for stable rental? Food Costs are another considerable expense to consider.

Basic necessities you will need for you and your new horse are a bridle, saddle, saddle blanket, grooming brush, feed tin and water container. I would suggest enquiring about these costs before purchasing your horse, as they can be very expensive items.

Another important factor to consider is shoeing fees. There is also a chance you may have to seek veterinary attention for your horse’s teeth, worm control, coughs/ colds, and vaccinations against diseases that can harm your horse or leave him at risk.

Picking Your Horse

We recommend researching breeders carefully before choosing, be sure to pick one that is reputable. Beware of purchasing a horse from someone that cannot produce proper paperwork and history of the horse. We also recommend having your Veterinarian check out the horse before you make the purchase.

Be sure to express to the breeder exactly what your intentions are for buying the horse. Are you competing? Will a child be riding the horse? These are very important questions, as you want to make sure your horse will best suit you and/or your families riding needs.

Powerd By

Horse Safety Tips

Horses are beautiful, loving creatures but like anything else in life, there are precautions you should take when dealing with them. While a horse would never intentionally hurt a person or another animal, accidents can happen. It is best to be aware of how to avoid such occurrences before they happen.

Barn Safety Tips:

All barn equipment should have a proper place for storing, they should not be left out where a horse can step on them or a human can trip over them as well. Always be sure to put rakes, forks and any other equipment out of reach.

When cleaning Up be sure to sweep up the barn on a regular basis to prevent any foreign objects, nails and the like to be left on the barn floor which can hurt your foot and your horses hoof.

When visiting the barn be sure to wear proper attire and a shoe that will protect your feet. You should never wear an open toed shoe, flip flop or sandal when working or visiting a barn. It is best to wear a sneaker or shoe so that your foot is protected at all times.

More Horse Safety Tips:

Always be aware of where you are standing in proximity to where the horse is; should you have to walk behind him, always walk as close to him as possible. Should the horse get nervous or startled he could possibly kick, this can be avoided by walking closely behind him not allowing him room to kick.

You should always lead your horse back into the barn or stall, do not allow him to charge into the stall. Taking the time to train your horse in this manner is a safe measure for any other horses, animals and people that may be present when your horse darts in the barn or stall. When using a lead to guide your horse into the barn, use a lead rope which will give you more control then leading him by the halter.

Lastly, keep your animals separate and never put them alone in a confined space. Many animals simply do not get along and can become agitated which could end up an unsafe situation for you and the animals.

Powered By

Teaching Your Horse to Stand

Getting a horse to stand still is all about getting its attention. Heeding teaches you to keep your attention on the horse so that the horse will keep his attention on you. Once you have the horse’s attention, you use your body position to create pressures or shapes that, in turn, create a feeling in the horse that he should move forward or left or right or stop. You can also direct him to stand still in one spot while you work around him or the farrier works around him or you want to put on his saddle.

The first place this giving and receiving of attention starts is in grooming. So that’s where standing still also starts. You must pay attention to the horse while grooming. This is very important in terms of horse logic. The horse allows itself to be groomed and you honor the horse by grooming him. In the horse’s mind, grooming is about a whole lot more than brushing off dirt.

You start building a relationship with the horse through scratching or brushing the places the horse loves to be groomed. If you give him the freedom to move, he’ll move around and change his posture to show you exactly where he wants you to scratch. The horse’s secondary or neutral line runs through his shoulders so, horse logically, that’s the most comfortable place to start. You’re not putting any pressure on him when you’re standing at his shoulder facing him. Work out gradually from this comfortable spot towards places that are instinctively uncomfortable for the horse like scratching from his withers up his neck, down his front legs or around his back legs. Never surprise the horse about where you’re going.

In the beginning, the horse may need to be tied. But the best way to groom is to have the horse loose in a big enough place that he can move around to show you were he wants to be scratched or he can leave you if he wants. Let the lead rope trail on the ground and, if he wants to leave, let him go. When he steps on the lead rope, he’ll interrupt his leaving and think about whether that was a comfortable thing to do.

If he starts to leave, just calmly back up out of his kicking range so he can go by quietly. Don’t chase him. Keep his attention on you with just enough sound or movement, just enough fuss, that his ears swivel towards you. You want an intense level of attention not an intense level of activity. Eventually the horse will turn around and face you to see what the fuss is all about. Then you stop fussing, walk up quietly to his shoulder on that neutral line through his withers and start grooming again. You want to create the feeling in the horse that standing there quietly with you is the most comfortable place to be.

Your goal is to make standing next to him and grooming him so comfortable that the horse wants to groom you back. If you are working with a baby horse that has a tendency to bite or nip, stabilize his lower jaw with a dropped noseband. You don’t want to have to slap him when he reaches around to groom you. In the horse’s mind, grooming you in return for your favor of scratching him is a proper, horse-logical thing to do. A slap would spoil the feeling of quiet and trust you are trying to build. Instead, when the horse reaches around to groom you, just quietly slide your hand up his neck and push gently against the back of his jowl. This reinforces the feeling that the thing you want him to do is just stand there quietly.

As you groom, move your primary line around the horse in a circle. That means when you’re alongside the horse facing him, all of your motion is sideways. When you want to leave the horse and have him stand, return sideways to that neutral line running through his withers and back straight out. When you are far enough away that the horse looks to see what you’re doing, turn halfway around so your back is to him. Now walk away.

In the beginning, the horse is going to think, “Hey, he’s gone.” Then the horse feels free to wander off while you’re going to get the brush or the blanket or whatever. So you go back to making that little fuss, getting his attention back on you, getting him facing you, then you just calmly go back to whatever it was you were doing.

Wherever the horse stops and says, “I’m listening again,” you go over and work with him there. Don’t move him back to the original spot you were working because this changes the issue for the baby horse. Your intention to keep the horse paying attention is the secret to creating the feeling that he should just stand there when you leave.

Over a period of time, the horse comes to understand that he should just stand there when you are alongside him, he should stand there when you’re doing things out away from him, and he should just stand there when other people like the farrier or the vet or a judge are walking around him. You are teaching him a pattern that you want to become a habit.

This habit also gives you a safe way to leave a horse you’re turning out without getting kicked or run over. When you’re leaving the horse in a spot he doesn’t have to stay until you return, you leave by a slightly different route. Back out far enough on the horse’s neutral line to be out of kicking range, then turn so your primary line is parallel to the horse’s and leave to the rear. If the horse doesn’t move off, you can swing your primary line behind him to create a feeling that you are following or chasing to communicate that he can move off now.

In the training sequence, keeping the horse’s attention on you at every moment is not critical once you and the horse have developed a bigger relationship. But in the beginning, keep the horse’s attention on you is the basis of everything else.

Powered By